FAQ'S ABOUT WOOD

No, because there is a risk that the moisture content of the wood is too high, and that you will encase the moisture. This can result in peeling and cracking, and in the worst case rot in the wood. When spring comes you should clean the wooden surface, remove any decayed wood and wood fibres, sot you are left with fresh wood. The you should prime against rot and fungi, and apply 2-3 coats of wood protection.

It is very difficult to remove wood protection stains from flagstones or masonry, if they are dry. If the stain is discovered right away, you can probably remove most of it with white spirit, depending on the colour and posity of the surface. If the stain is dry, you can apply soft soap, which will soften the wood protection. Clean the surface the next day with a high-pressure cleaner. On cars you can remove fresh wood protection stains with white spirit. If the stains are dry, it will be necessary to polish the car with a polishing product with light sanding properties. On windows you can remove stains with a razor blade.

It depends on which type of wood protection you choose, and which impacts from the climate your wood surface is exposed to. There are several different types of wood protection products for surface treatment. They can be oil or water based, translucent or opaque.

Translucent wood protection: has pigments, but does not hid the wood structure completely. The veining is still visible. The growth of mould is inhibited. If you choose translucent wood protection, you need to maintain relatively often - typically with 1-4 years interval.

Opaque wood protection: contains more pigment thant translucent wood protection. More "surface" is formed on the wood, which is therefore protected for a longer period of time - typically up to 10 years depending on product and climate. The wood veins are hidden, but the wood structure itself is preserved. Also in this case growth of mould on the surface is inhibited. Regardless of choice of wood protection type, you must always check your woodwork thoroughly once a year and remove dirt, algae and mould as well as mend any damage(s).

We recommend using Bondex Decking Oil, Bondex Extreme Decking Oil or Bondex Matt, as these products will enhance the warm, reddish glow of the wood. Using a wood preserver is not necessary. Treat the wood 2 times with a one or two-day interval.

Worms are the larvae from the woodworm. You can tell if the attack is active, if you can see very fine sawdust. Bondex Preserve is a product for outdoor use only, which is both preventive and curative against insects, woodworm, termites, fungi, rot and blue stain. As products curingthe above problem need to be approved by registration in the various countries by local authorities, please enquire if such a product is available in your market.

Yes, but it is not the optimum treatment. However, your wood will be reasonably protected until spring, where you can finish the treatment.

Whether you choose oil based or water based wood protection is a matter of taste, but there are a couple of things to consider:

The water based wood protection products demand a very careful preparation in order to achieve a good result. In return the maintenance intervals will be longer than for oil based wood protection. If the construction and preparation is not good enough, you risk moisture absorption under a seemingly intact surface. Oil based wood protection is normally degraded over time by erosion. Therefore maintenance is easy, because the preparations are not so extensive.

All things being equal, you get the longest durability with water based, opaque wood protection, while the shortest maintenance intervals are seen with translucent, oil based products. However, please note that water based wood protection is not recommended for horizontal surfaces, where the water cannot be led away! In addition it is very important that the construction is correct.

Therefore: If the construction of the woodwork is correct, the syestems will be equally good. On areas in which the construction is lacking, we recommend an oil based system, which will tell you if there is a problem by peeling off.

Yes, you should prime larch against rot and fungi like any other coniferous wood.

When you apply wood protection the average day and night temperature must be above 5oC during the night. Furthermore the wood must be dry - wood moisture should not exceed 15%. It can be difficult to assess, if the wood is dry enough. But in many DIY stores and paint shops, you can rent a moisture meter, in case you are not sure. The relative humidity must be below 80%. As a guideline you can say that it must have been sunny or windy for at least a couple of days before the wood is dry enough.

Pressure impregnated wood can be treated, when the wood is dry - max. 18% moisture content in the wood. You can rent a moisture meter in most DIY stores.

A colourless product does not contain any pigments. The colour pigments in the surface product protect the wood against the sun's UV-rays. If you use a colourless wood protection as end treatment, the surface will quickly degrade and turn grey, and be left without protection. Colourless wood protection is therefore mainly used for thinning 1:1 with other translucent colours, if you do not want to give a lot of colour to your wood. We do, however, have a colourless product for exterior use (Bondex Long Life UV), but you need to ensure that you apply at least 75 microns in layer thickness (= at least 3 coats).

Some wood species contain large amounts of water - especially softwood (incl. Western Red Cedar), and we always recommend corrosion resistant nails and screws.

You can use both, but they should be corrosion resistant in order to avoid corrosion and metal discolouration. Some wood species - e.g. Western Red Cedar - contain corosive agents, so in this case corrosion resistant nails, screws and fittings are preferable.